Quick answer: A private treaty sale is when a home is listed and you negotiate privately with the agent, usually with your offer subject to finance and a building-and-pest inspection. An auction is a public sale where the highest bid wins on the day, and that winning bid is unconditional, with no finance or inspection clauses to protect you. Each suits a different kind of buyer, and the right one for you comes down to your deposit, your finance, and how much certainty you need.

If you’ve ever scrolled a listing and wondered why some homes have an auction date and others just say “make an offer,” this is the difference that matters. Get it wrong and you can lock yourself into a contract with no way out. Here’s how each one actually works.

Private treaty: negotiating behind closed doors

If a listing has no auction date, just “make offers,” or “needs to sell, act fast,” it’s a private treaty sale. A private sale, basically.

What that means for you: the seller keeps every offer private. You inspect the home, you talk to the agent, you negotiate, and you put forward an offer without ever seeing what anyone else has bid. Ask the agent for a price guide and you’ll usually get a vague range, followed by the classic question thrown straight back at you: “What are you pre-approved for?”

So don’t lean on the agent to tell you what the home is worth. Most won’t reveal what the seller actually wants. You do the homework yourself, or you get someone to do it for you. This is where a broker earns their keep: pulling recently sold comparable properties in the same area, reviewing property reports, and giving you a straight read on what the place should sell for and what conditions to put in your offer.

One tip that holds up every time. Stay in regular contact with the agent. Sometimes they’ll nudge you: bump your offer up a little and you might just get there. But here’s the catch. In a private sale, you never really know if the agent is telling you the truth or just squeezing.

“Best and final offers” — what it means

At some point the agent may come back with “best and final offers.” They’ve collected the early offers and they’re giving everyone one more crack, usually the top five or six, sometimes the whole field, sometimes even the buyer who’s already sitting at the top.

That last one is the tricky bit. If you’re already the highest and there’s nobody behind you, are they squeezing for more? You can’t see the board. That mental tug-of-war over when to push and when to walk is a whole skill in itself.

Auction: everything out in the open

An auction flips all of that 180 degrees. It’s the part of buying that scares people off, mostly because they don’t understand how it works, not because it’s actually worse.

Why it carries real risk for a buyer comes down to three things:

  1. The winning bid is unconditional. No finance clause. No building-and-pest clause. Win the auction and you’re committed, full stop, and you’ll typically need to settle inside 30 days.
  2. You pay a deposit on the spot. Usually 10%, due on the day or within 24 hours.
  3. The room gets emotional. Bidding against other people, with an agent at your shoulder, it’s easy to push past your number and overpay.

All true. All manageable, if you’ve set it up right.

How to take the risk out of an auction

The unconditional part is the one people fear most, and it’s the easiest to solve. A good broker takes the exact address of the property you want, looks at your maximum bid, and runs an upfront valuation through the lender before auction day. Because the one thing the bank doesn’t know when you’re pre-approved is which home you’ll buy. Sort that out in advance and finance stops being a gamble.

Building-and-pest reports are usually supplied by the seller before the auction. You can commission your own, just know it has to be done before auction day, and you won’t get that money back if you don’t end up winning.

Then there’s the deposit. Not everyone has 10% in cash, and depending on how your finance is structured, you may get a chunk of it back at settlement anyway. If you’re buying with a smaller deposit, through the First Home Guarantee [VERIFY: current as of publish], a guarantor, or by tapping equity in another property, you’ve got options. You can ask the agent before bidding starts whether you can put down 5% if you win. Family can lend you the deposit short-term, knowing it comes back on settlement. Deposit bonds exist too, though they’re not always the right call. If a smaller deposit is your situation, it’s worth understanding low-deposit and guarantor options before you set foot in the room.

Why an auction can actually work in your favour

Here’s the part nobody mentions. At a private sale, only the seller can see the offers, so they can tell you there’s a higher bid when there mightn’t be one at all. At auction, every buyer is in the same room. It’s all laid bare. And it’s a risk for the seller too: if the home passes in without selling, every buyer there has seen exactly where the others stopped, and the negotiation that follows hands the upper hand straight to the buyers.

Most people are too nervous to bid, so they never show up. Which can mean fewer rivals in the room than you’d expect. Don’t rule an auction out. Just walk in with the right person in your corner.

Speak to a Brisbane mortgage broker

Whether you’re weighing up an auction or working an offer on a private sale, the difference between confidence and a costly mistake is having your finance checked against the actual property first. Talk to a Brisbane broker and we’ll do the legwork before you bid.


FAQ:

Do I need a 10% deposit to bid at auction?

Usually you’ll need to put down 10% on the day or within 24 hours of winning. But depending on how your loan is structured, you may be able to negotiate a smaller deposit with the agent beforehand, or use a guarantor, equity, or a deposit bond. Just get it sorted before bidding starts.

Can I make an offer “subject to finance” at an auction?

No. A winning auction bid is unconditional, so there’s no finance clause and no building-and-pest clause to fall back on. That’s why it’s essential to have your finance and any inspections confirmed before auction day.

What does “best and final offers” mean in a private sale?

It means the agent has collected the initial offers and is inviting buyers to submit one last, strongest offer. It’s often sent to the top few buyers, but sometimes to everyone, even the current highest bidder, so you rarely know exactly where you stand.